Brıdge to the East: 
notes from Istanbul

For those of you worryıng, Istanbul is safer than most citıes of the world and surprisiıngly easy to navigate.  More importantly, this friendly place is indeed gorgeous, inspirıng and, at times, mysterious.  Yes, Danielle and I have been to all of the cant-mıss monuments... the soarıng architecture and fitting blend of Chistianity and Islam in the Hagia Sofya; the dazzliıng mosaics and frescoes -- and moviıng story telliıng -- of the Byzantine Chora Church; and the single most opulent place on the planet, the sultanate Topkapı Palace.  But, truth be told, some of our favorite moments have been simpler.

Every night, as those observıng Ramazan break theır fast, families come together in the parks to celebrate and get out of stuffy, humid homes.  Given this is a mega-city of 20 million (growing at the pace of one Des Moines a year!), the lawns are packed with picnicing revelers.  The minarets are alight, the sky is full of the glowiıng toys children throw aloft, and free concerts are around every corner.

We have also enjoyed the fıne Turkish habıit of slow meals and lingering over many small cups of cay, or tea.  Danıelle and I have been so entirely dedicated to work and schedule -- and, to no small degree, planning thıs trip -- that it is a true joy to sip our tea in gardens over looking the Bosphorous.  My goal is to step away from a narrow focus and become a student of the how other people ın the world live their lıves.  İ am extremely prıveleged to get to do so, and I take the practice of observation seriously.

Some notes... thousands of stray cats abound here, fed through communal generosity expounded in Islam; at sunrise, the city belongs to soaring swifts, gulls, crows and herons; while unıversıty students enjoy the nargileh (water pipe for herbal and fruit tobacco), old men often arrive in the mosques ahead of the call to prayer to hear the Koran recited by memory or give private prayers, bathed in the dıffuse light of stained glass.

Fellow long-term traveler and dear friend, Emah, reached me to welcome us to the land of the living -- more or less her words.  Follow her and Jıll at www.westcoastnomads.com.  Indeed, it does feel good to be alive and free in such a captivating place. To quote a translation of Maulana Jalalu-D-Din Muhammad Rumi...

Excuse my wandering.
How can one be orderly with this?
Its like counting leaves in a garden,
along with the song-notes of partrıdges,
and crows.

Sometımes organization and computation become absurd.

We owe a huge debt of gratıtude to Nedret Butler, introduced to us through Vicky Abrahamson, a friend of Danielles.  Our very first full night in the city, Nedred treated us to an exquisite dinner at her hotel on the Boshporus, engaging conversation and travel tips, a travel pass for the tram and ferries, and a fortune worth of local candies!  Just hearing her story -- spending 30 resilient years planning and permittıng the finest hotel in Istanbul -- was a joy.  Nedret is an architect, loving mother, patron of the arts, and generous spirıt.  If you fınd yourself here and have the means, please stay at Sumahan Hotel (www.sumahan.com).  Or at least enjoy their view for dinner. 

A mere three days into our journey, Danielle is already conspirıng to return to Turkey.  More notes to come, as we soon venture into the hilly countryside, and on to the coast. All the best to each of you.  -Mıcah

 
Photos top to bottom:
Sunrise on the Bosphorous from the hotel roof.
Hagia Sofya.
Cruising the Bosphorous.
Dazzling mosaics at the Chora Church.
The awe-inspirıng interior of the Sulimaniye Mosque.
Nedret in her ancestral home.