Dispatches from Laos, plus road trip music and books

Sunset over the Mekong River, Luang Prabang.

Even though we've only been in Luang Prabang for eight days, I have a lot to say about Laos.  But I am choosing to reserve most of this for later on, when I've seen more of the country.  Suffice it to say that we have fallen into some kind of synchronicity with this place and, despite first impressions, we are very glad to be here.  Sitting on the porch of our back-alley guesthouse, listening to the play of neighborhood children and the chirp of geckos, I am content to feel the warm evening contrast nicely with a cool beer.  We have deliberately eschewed the tourist scene... tours of waterfalls and elephant camps, disruptive and disrespectful snapping of photos of the monks receiving alms from their neighbors each morning, and clamoring for drinks at the western style bars.  Instead, we have volunteered at the library to help locals with their English, taken traditional art classes, and generally tried to go unnoticed.

Danielle greeting three friendly young bicyclists; practicing English with two novice monks; and, learning the traditional way to make stencils used in temple decoration. 

As we rest here, unhurried, I remember that the pace of life at home for virtually everyone we know is several degrees more busy -- even frantic.  We have temporarily bought our freedom to simply idle.  Seeing the sights, sure, but also reading and listening to music and daydreaming.  We are privileged to finally have quality time together, and quality time to ourselves.  Out of that, I want to share some of my small discoveries...

If you are looking for some tunes to download, consider the following recommendations.  I am including the artists, and songs, that I have returned to again and again on this journey.  Over the years I have been guilty of making innumerable mix tapes and cds for the people I cherish.  It's as if the songs themselves could, in my absence, deliver a hug and say, "I love you THIS much".  Music is, for me, a powerful path to recollection and reconnection, and I hope someone out there will enjoy these sonic gems too.

-----

Laura Marling, "Rambling Man"...

my God, what a voice she has.  And this is the perfect road trip tune.

John Fullbright, "Jericho"...

exquisite, heart-wrenching country blues. 

Wilco, "Black Moon"...

like most Wilco ballades, this one is absolutely haunting and beautiful.

Tinariwen, "Walla Illa"...

you can find no better road music for a bus or train in a foreign land.

Ani Difranco, "Garden of Simple"...

Ani is always jarring, poetic and emotive.

-----

I have never read so much in my life as I have this past year, and it feels great.  These are but a few of the works that have enriched my language, insight, and creativity.  Enjoy.

Apsley Cherry-Garrard, The Worst Journey In the World...

a scientist-explorer's gripping, inspiring account of an adventure that is the pinnacle of suffering and loyalty.  

Elif Shafak, The Forty Rules of Love: A Novel of Rumi...

beautiful rendering of what is known of the life of Sufi poet Rumi, inside a rather clever plot.

David Mitchell, Ghostwritten...

just as brilliant, surprising and ingenuitive a novel as his later blockbuster, Could Atlas.

Bruce Chatwin, In Patagonia...


a one-of-a-kind travelogue rich with bizarre anecdotes from a strange land.

-----

Things are not nearly so comprehensible and sayable as we are generally made to believe.  Most experiences are unsayable; they come to fullness in a realm that words to not inhabit.
Ranier Rilke


Of course, I can not possibly convey exactly what it feels like to be on this journey, but maybe something in the tone and emotional climate of these songs and stories will deliver my message.

Take care, everyone.
~Micah

Bountiful Northern Thailand

Somehow Danielle and I have passed nearly a month in Chiang Mai, a city in the north of Thailand that quickly grew on us.  Here is a short list of its attractions, and the reasons for the city's many expats:

~many, many beautiful and historic Bhuddist temples
~easy transport, be it scooter, songthaew (seats in the back of a truck), or tuk tuk
~incredible varieties of produce and delicious, cheap street food in the many markets
~very affordable massage
~all the comforts of home for travel weary foreigners (coffee shops, yoga studios, clean rooms, etc.)
~helpful and friendly people wherever you turn

We also had the wonderful surprise of our friends Emah and Jill  landing here the day after us (see posts on Turkey and Greece for their last appearance in this blog)!  It was a joy to wander the markets and go to yoga classes in their company.  We even threw back so-called "tequila" shots at the very happening North Gate Jazz Club, and paid for it with a 2-day hangover.   

Of course, Chiang Mai can be noisy and air pollution is problematic, but we feel restored and inspired by our time here.  Danielle's Thai massage course exceeded her expectations, and I made the most of my solo time by exploring the nearby national parks.  No doubt we'll be back.   Onward to Laos for a few weeks, followed by Bali.  Wishes of health and happiness to all!  ~Micah

 Offerings and prayers to Buddha.

 A Reclining Buddha cat, very much at peace.

Celebrating our reunion.  Imbibing with Jill on the sidewalk in front of a tiny jazz club, traffic whipping by behind us.  

Enjoying a night time market with Emah.

Watching our favorite street vendor whip up some very fresh stir fry.  My favorite meals include red curry with fish and pumpkin, as well as spicy duck tom yum soup. 

 Danielle and Emah in a moment of sweet anticipation... fancy coffee.

 A lotus flower in one of the many botanical gardens.

 The annual Chiang Mai Flower Festival, with a floral parade, vendors of all imaginable varieties (especially orchids), and the crowning of a festival princess.  Danielle looks the part.

 January is an emotional month, remembering the losses four years ago of my dear mom, Barbara, and beloved uncle, Dean.  The temples offered a time for grateful reflection on their spirits, and prayer for further blessings on our journey.