South. Way South.

Pursuing a PhD is an odd and utterly consuming task, but it often affords unique experiences. The students in my program joined students in Concepcion, Chile to learn about global water issues. We evaluated the environmental effects of new dams and their vulnerability to volcanic activity (Chile has over ninety active), as well as the social and ecological welfare of indigenous Chileans in an otherwise unfettered and explosive capitalistic economy.

No point in traveling twenty-two air miles and not exploring, so Danielle endured unspeakable delays and sundry frustrations to join me for two weeks.  We made it worthwhile, though, poking about in northern Patagonia with a travel van, finding campsites as they long summer days waned. We spent most of our time on Chiloe -- a large, culturally distinct island offshore. We were enraptured by unusual birds and wildlife in three national parks -- think penguins and miniature deer -- and rarely did we have a chance to set the binoculars down. By far the highlight though, was our trip (on yet another small ferry) to the small island of Lemuy. Only recently roaded, its people still live in quiet and prideful partnership with each other -- drawing sustenance from lush gardens, sheep, and salmon pens offshore. Lemuy is also home to some of the oldest churches in the southern hemisphere, Spanish-era and Catholic of course, all built in a endemic style uniquely reminiscent of sailing ships.  It was a pleasure to stay with welcoming people who make everything by hand, and are keen to share their craft, their food and -- come evening -- their hand-pressed cider.  The natural setting of southern Chile is impressive, no doubt, but the warmth of its people will linger in our memories most of all.