We landed in Colombo, Sri Lanka (the large island off the southern tip of India) and made our way south by train to Galle. The very hospitable owner and staff at Leijay Resort -- a small eight room slice of heaven tucked discreetly into a quiet neighborhood -- made us feel right at home. The gardens were astonishingly beautiful, and teeming with tropical birds, butterflies, dragonflies, and passing troops of monkeys. Afternoons often brought impressive thunderheads; large 'flying dogs' (fruit bats) filled the sky at dusk. This was a time for us to rest from the intensity of India, as well as take a few day trips to the beach and rainforest. Danielle even talked her way into the kitchen to learn how to make their delicious curries.
One of the fascinating charms of Sri Lanka is the peoples' everyday blending of religions. Devotees make offerings at Buddhist shrines that also display Hindu deities. Shrines to local community or mountain Gods that pre-date Bhuddism are everywhere. There is also a strong Muslim community, with Christianity a lesser but still active presence given Portuguese, Dutch and English colonialism. Some holy places in Sri Lanka are important pilgrimages for everyone, and there are no lack of public holidays. The generous people of Leijay included us in their Christmas dinner and gift giving, and days later -- at our request -- several of us went to a local Bhuddist temple for Poya (full moon) rituals.
We reluctantly left Leijay, dragging ourselves away from the pool and nearly missing our train up the coast. We spent a couple of nights enjoying the sunsets along the Indian ocean before heading upcountry into the highlands.
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