Mountain Refuge: Utuado
Satisfying that itch to travel abroad, and with an eye for the Caribbean cultures at our doorstep, we spent a week of my winter break on Puerto Rico. Our friend Norma, herself Puerto Rican, had long ago enchanted us with the stories, food and attitude of her homeland. Norma could not join us, alas, but she connected us to her sister, Hilda, who (true to the PR spirit) was an exceptionally warm and generous host.
We started our journey in the highlands, recovering our wits in a more natural soundscape -- serenaded at night by the stereo caterwauling of pygmy screech owls. Later, my attempt at diving "The Wall" on the southern coast was predictably brought up short by high winds. But we made the best of the area, hiking roads thick with butterflies in the rare, coastal dry forests of Guanica. We followed this with a stop in provincial Ponce. This city is a beautiful artifact of colonialism, to be sure, but what we found striking was the abundant and richly colored art -- much of it related to the music and costuming of their annual Carnival.
We started our journey in the highlands, recovering our wits in a more natural soundscape -- serenaded at night by the stereo caterwauling of pygmy screech owls. Later, my attempt at diving "The Wall" on the southern coast was predictably brought up short by high winds. But we made the best of the area, hiking roads thick with butterflies in the rare, coastal dry forests of Guanica. We followed this with a stop in provincial Ponce. This city is a beautiful artifact of colonialism, to be sure, but what we found striking was the abundant and richly colored art -- much of it related to the music and costuming of their annual Carnival.
Finally, we rendezvoused with Hilda. She forever gained a place in my heart by greeting me with a beer on the veranda, following this with a steady supply of drinks and pork in the coming days. The highlight for us was a trip to Cerro de Nandy, a mountaintop restaurant known only to locals that is up such a steep road it requires hitching a ride on an eight-wheeled military truck. Nandy himself announced our arrival with a regal trumpet, shots of moonshine, and plates of home-made pork sausage and ribs. I could not have been happier. I suspect Danielle was in her happy place when we later descended to Hacienda Munoz, a coffee plantation producing roasts of exceptional quality.
Finally, reluctantly, we said our grateful goodbyes and lingered in Old San Juan en route to the airport. Walking the impressive battlements of the fort, sipping sugarcane juice as we toured the galleries, we felt free again in a way we hadn't since our big year in Asia. Many migrants don't have any choice, but a great unburdening can happen when you have the good fortune to deliberately step outside the borders of your native tongue. Less need to talk, more time to observe and appreciate. Add to that Puerto Rico's ample supply of "Woohoo!", and I've no doubt we'll be back someday. Besides, their economy -- their people -- can use all the help we can give right now.
Dry Forest Hikes: Guanica
Canival Art: Ponce
An Unforgettable Meal: Cerro de Nandy
Very Fine Coffee: Hacienda Munoz
Strolling Old San Juan
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