"Time Out!": Indonesia

First time south of the equator!  We met up with friends Andrea and Ray in Ubud, Bali.   The highlight was the Balinese Hindu holiday of Nyepi.  A few days prior to the holiday, sacred objects from temples across the island are paraded to the sea for ritual cleansing.  On the eve of the holiday, school groups and social organizations from every community carry their fantastically conceived and crafted "ogoh-ogoh" to the village or town center, accompanied by the trance-like percussive sounds of gamelon orchestras.  Representing malevolent or evil spirits, they are judged for artistic merit and ultimately sold or ritually burned.

Nyepi itself is traditionally a day of fasting and silence, so as to go unnoticed by those same demons passing overhead.  The airport is closed and no one but emergency vehicles is allowed on the streets, enforced with strict fines or jail time.  We holed up in our friends' luxuriant rental villa, doing yoga, swimming and cooking -- the better part of the day in silence, and entirely without any electronics or electric lights.  I can't begin to relate how soothing it was to not hear a vehicle motor, or blast of pop music, or raised voice, or construction noise.  Environments without man-made noise pollution are critically endangered on our planet (for more on this subject: www.soundtracker.com), so it was a true blessing to experience a lush, natural acoustic ecosystem and have ample time for reflection.

The day following Nyepi on the Balinese religious calendar is celebrated as the New Year, a time to feast with family and -- I like this best -- ask your kin and loved ones for their forgiveness.  What could be more important, or more difficult, than this small ritual?  Given my remoteness from family and friends, I will take the easy way out...  To everyone out there whom I may have irritated, hurt or offended in the past year (or ever), I humbly ask your forgiveness.  Thank you. 

Everyone in our small Nyepi party felt renewed by this experience and vowed to observe the holiday next year, wherever we may be.

After Nyepi, we all traveled to the island of Lombok, 2 hours by speed boat across the "Wallace Line" (see Wikipedia for this interesting naturalist's theory).  This was a time to ride scooters along the picturesque coast, have drinks, swim in the mellow sea and marvel at the intense thunderheads and storms of the late rainy season. 

After Andrea and Ray departed for adventures in Cambodia, we took another boat on the short trip to Gili Air, one of three small, flat and palm-covered islets with no vehicles, and not much to do besides snorkel, dive, and lay about in a hammock.  Perfect!  Absolutely heaven.   The only way to get around is on foot, by bicycle, or in one of the horse-drawn carts (which, incidentally, do all the heavy lifting for transportation of supplies and construction materials).   Not that there is anywhere to go... I circled the island one morning at sunrise in just over an hour.  The diving was rich; I saw a plethora of beautiful, colorful corals and fishes, rays, cuttlefish and even a shark.  And it felt so healing to slow way, way down.

It was, in fact, quite depressing to leave and return to the noisy, rampant development and traffic of Bali, but we had already made plans for a rental near Canggu.  As consolation, our villa is lovely and looks out on what remains of a beautiful rice field.  And there is surfing down the road.  Mostly though, we are taking this time to figure out what we want for the next few months -- can't believe it has been eight months on the road already!  This is also our chance to allow ourselves more time for yoga. Time is the real necessity for creativity and personal growth, so we are spending several hours each day in practice and study.  Our next steps are vague at best, but this is as good a place for a "time out" as any.  Peace.  ~Micah 

Laos continued...

We ventured away from the relative luxury of Luang Prabang, traveling north to to a small mountain town called Nong Khiaw.  Straddling the Nam Ou River, a tributary to the mighty Mekong, it is surrounded by impressive limestone karst mountains.  We explored nearby villages by boat and on foot.  Danielle bought an inexpensive hand-made scarf from a girl who spent three days at her loom making it.

The people of Laos are a complex array of hill tribes with varying customs and language, but they all depend to some degree on the rivers of their land-locked country.  The Nam Ou, sadly, is due to be dammed in several places as part of a massive Chinese-financed hydroelectric project.  Laos is emerging from political isolation, and China is quite willing to sponsor infrastructure projects in exchange for a large share of its neighbors' natural resources.  We saw some 30 villagers dragging a concrete power pole up a muddy bank, a few feet at a time.  We also saw the first street lamps being installed in Nong Khiaw, soon to mute the starry skies.  It was interesting to be in Laos during this period of transition, when an average wage yields $1500 per year, but SUVs are beginning to clog the quiet city streets.  While we loved Laos cuisine -- especially their extra-sticky sticky rice -- the markets still illustrate the nation's overall poverty and reliance on wild foods... river fish, rodents, crickets and grubs, songbirds and pounded river weed are all on the menu.

We then made our way the central plains of Laos, to a ecolodge on the Nam Ngum river.  We hiked through the rainforest, and canoed and swam in the deceptively strong current.  To illustrate how close to nature we were, I'll share that we were very slow and sparing with the toilet paper so as not to disturb the resident orange frog.

Finally, we spent several days in the small capitol city, Vientiane.  Travelers generally don't hold this city in high regard.  Unlike Luang Prabang, which is entirely given over to catering to tourists, there is not much to 'do or see' here.  So, we loved it.  We enjoyed loitering around the Mekong River waterfront at sunset, watching the kids proudly pedal their fixed-gear bikes, the joggers, and the outdoor aerobics classes punching the air.  We enjoyed watching workers playing the Lao version of bocce on their coffee breaks.  Overall, we were very charmed by all the friendly people we encountered in Laos and consider ourselves very fortunate to visit.

One last note, Laos was relentlessly bombed by America during the Vietnam War, in an unsuccessful attempt to cut off the Ho Chi Minh trail.  It was a secret and illegal bombardment of a neutral country, with an average of one B-52 payload dropped on Laos every 8 minutes over several years.  There were no rules of engagement, so anything or anyone that moved was a viable target.  Hundreds of innocents still die every year, as approximately 30% of the bombs didn't explode.  The unexploded ordinance (UXO) is hidden in the soil and will blow up with the slightest unintentional disturbance -- be it a farmer clearing land or children building a campfire.  On the other hand, victims are often children that hunt for scrap metal to sell on the black market -- knowing full well the risks but desperate for cash.  Hospitals are ill equipped to help the injured, and those maimed individuals that survive often waste away in remote villages, unknown to authorities.  We visited and contributed what we could to the Cope Center, a rehabilitation center with several important programs.  For everyone who is moved, and especially us American taxpayers who finance these wars (even inadvertently), please consider a small donation to their sorely needed programs.  I think of it as token recompense for a lethal legacy, but a humble and heartfelt gesture all the same.  ~Micah

www.copecenter.org

Dispatches from Laos, plus road trip music and books

Sunset over the Mekong River, Luang Prabang.

Even though we've only been in Luang Prabang for eight days, I have a lot to say about Laos.  But I am choosing to reserve most of this for later on, when I've seen more of the country.  Suffice it to say that we have fallen into some kind of synchronicity with this place and, despite first impressions, we are very glad to be here.  Sitting on the porch of our back-alley guesthouse, listening to the play of neighborhood children and the chirp of geckos, I am content to feel the warm evening contrast nicely with a cool beer.  We have deliberately eschewed the tourist scene... tours of waterfalls and elephant camps, disruptive and disrespectful snapping of photos of the monks receiving alms from their neighbors each morning, and clamoring for drinks at the western style bars.  Instead, we have volunteered at the library to help locals with their English, taken traditional art classes, and generally tried to go unnoticed.

Danielle greeting three friendly young bicyclists; practicing English with two novice monks; and, learning the traditional way to make stencils used in temple decoration. 

As we rest here, unhurried, I remember that the pace of life at home for virtually everyone we know is several degrees more busy -- even frantic.  We have temporarily bought our freedom to simply idle.  Seeing the sights, sure, but also reading and listening to music and daydreaming.  We are privileged to finally have quality time together, and quality time to ourselves.  Out of that, I want to share some of my small discoveries...

If you are looking for some tunes to download, consider the following recommendations.  I am including the artists, and songs, that I have returned to again and again on this journey.  Over the years I have been guilty of making innumerable mix tapes and cds for the people I cherish.  It's as if the songs themselves could, in my absence, deliver a hug and say, "I love you THIS much".  Music is, for me, a powerful path to recollection and reconnection, and I hope someone out there will enjoy these sonic gems too.

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Laura Marling, "Rambling Man"...

my God, what a voice she has.  And this is the perfect road trip tune.

John Fullbright, "Jericho"...

exquisite, heart-wrenching country blues. 

Wilco, "Black Moon"...

like most Wilco ballades, this one is absolutely haunting and beautiful.

Tinariwen, "Walla Illa"...

you can find no better road music for a bus or train in a foreign land.

Ani Difranco, "Garden of Simple"...

Ani is always jarring, poetic and emotive.

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I have never read so much in my life as I have this past year, and it feels great.  These are but a few of the works that have enriched my language, insight, and creativity.  Enjoy.

Apsley Cherry-Garrard, The Worst Journey In the World...

a scientist-explorer's gripping, inspiring account of an adventure that is the pinnacle of suffering and loyalty.  

Elif Shafak, The Forty Rules of Love: A Novel of Rumi...

beautiful rendering of what is known of the life of Sufi poet Rumi, inside a rather clever plot.

David Mitchell, Ghostwritten...

just as brilliant, surprising and ingenuitive a novel as his later blockbuster, Could Atlas.

Bruce Chatwin, In Patagonia...


a one-of-a-kind travelogue rich with bizarre anecdotes from a strange land.

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Things are not nearly so comprehensible and sayable as we are generally made to believe.  Most experiences are unsayable; they come to fullness in a realm that words to not inhabit.
Ranier Rilke


Of course, I can not possibly convey exactly what it feels like to be on this journey, but maybe something in the tone and emotional climate of these songs and stories will deliver my message.

Take care, everyone.
~Micah

Bountiful Northern Thailand

Somehow Danielle and I have passed nearly a month in Chiang Mai, a city in the north of Thailand that quickly grew on us.  Here is a short list of its attractions, and the reasons for the city's many expats:

~many, many beautiful and historic Bhuddist temples
~easy transport, be it scooter, songthaew (seats in the back of a truck), or tuk tuk
~incredible varieties of produce and delicious, cheap street food in the many markets
~very affordable massage
~all the comforts of home for travel weary foreigners (coffee shops, yoga studios, clean rooms, etc.)
~helpful and friendly people wherever you turn

We also had the wonderful surprise of our friends Emah and Jill  landing here the day after us (see posts on Turkey and Greece for their last appearance in this blog)!  It was a joy to wander the markets and go to yoga classes in their company.  We even threw back so-called "tequila" shots at the very happening North Gate Jazz Club, and paid for it with a 2-day hangover.   

Of course, Chiang Mai can be noisy and air pollution is problematic, but we feel restored and inspired by our time here.  Danielle's Thai massage course exceeded her expectations, and I made the most of my solo time by exploring the nearby national parks.  No doubt we'll be back.   Onward to Laos for a few weeks, followed by Bali.  Wishes of health and happiness to all!  ~Micah

 Offerings and prayers to Buddha.

 A Reclining Buddha cat, very much at peace.

Celebrating our reunion.  Imbibing with Jill on the sidewalk in front of a tiny jazz club, traffic whipping by behind us.  

Enjoying a night time market with Emah.

Watching our favorite street vendor whip up some very fresh stir fry.  My favorite meals include red curry with fish and pumpkin, as well as spicy duck tom yum soup. 

 Danielle and Emah in a moment of sweet anticipation... fancy coffee.

 A lotus flower in one of the many botanical gardens.

 The annual Chiang Mai Flower Festival, with a floral parade, vendors of all imaginable varieties (especially orchids), and the crowning of a festival princess.  Danielle looks the part.

 January is an emotional month, remembering the losses four years ago of my dear mom, Barbara, and beloved uncle, Dean.  The temples offered a time for grateful reflection on their spirits, and prayer for further blessings on our journey. 

Sri Lanka Part II: The Never Ending Trek

Sri Lanka is WAY more relaxed than India.  Less car horns, less garbage in the streets and streams.  Even the dogs "bow wooo" rather than bark.  Danielle and I were interested in coming here to experience its abundant and diverse nature and wildlife.  The 150 year old royal botanical gardens in Kandy were full of beautiful specimens, like the multi-colored and massive Burmese bamboo (above).  But we wanted more, so we signed up for a 5 day trek across the Knuckles Range, a rarely visited and very rugged area that is home to many endemic species of plant and animal found nowhere else on the planet.  There are only a handful of guides that know the area.  I'm taking copious notes of all of our adventures, but what follows is a very brief account. 

Day 1: With our guide Amal, we climbed in the pouring rain up through cinnamon, cardamom and tea plantations.  Nice birding.  Into the foothills rainforest, over rushing whitewater, then higher to a comfortable camp manned by a local planter and talented cook, Dickson, and his assistant Nero.  17 km.  That night, we traded Beatles and campfire songs for their Singhalese songs and drumming. 

Day 2: We did an out-and-back to the summit of the Knuckles Range, climbing up through more tea, bamboo forest, dwarf forest (rocky soil) and eventually cloud forest -- that lived up to its name.  No sign of the leopard that left the scat, but plenty of leeches!  They move like inchworms, only faster.  Stand still for a couple of minutes and they find your feet and lower legs.  They aren't difficult to remove with a bit of salt, but the chemicals they employ lead to prolonged bleeding.  Later, the clouds did clear enough to show us what we had climbed (the tall peak behind me in the photo below).  A strenuous 18 km day.

 Day 3: Began a very, very long, joint-aching descent of the other side of the range.  Due to fading light, we took a short-cut, barely keeping up with a barefoot old woman carrying a massive Jak fruit on her head.  Then we got lost crossing rice paddies in an absolutely downpour.  Soon after we discovered a major bridge was out from recent flooding.   Thankfully an old man helped us make a safe crossing.  Finally, we made it to our homestay on a family-run pepper plantation in the tiny village of Meemure.  This is a traditional village still known for its daring treacle harvesters (nectar from the flowers of 'fish-tail palms'; used like honey and fermented into 'local champaigne').  Meemure only received electricity in 1999, and our hosts cracked open their new tv and dvd player the day we arrived.  A very big 24 km day.  Banana flower curry and roasted jak fruit seed and off to bed on straw mats.

Day 4:  Things from here on out get utterly crazy.  We hiked an alternative route due to heavy rain.  This involved more climbing, through the darkest jungle I've ever seen.  I couldn't even see my socks in the dim light to check for leeches, though I knew they were in hot pursuit (seriously).  The trail was essentially a very steep creek.  All I can say is my wife is a badass -- excuse the language.  Don't even know how many km we walked.

We finally made it to a waiting jeep, much to the amusement and bewilderment of smiling villagers.  Then we tore off to visit a nearby national park known for its wild elephants.  At this point I was getting very ill to my stomach from some contaminated food or water and it began to rain even harder.  We did manage to see some astounding birds and a herd of elephants literally blocked our path, but shortly thereafter we got the jeep thoroughly stuck in the mud.  Our rescue came three hours later, well after darkness settled in.

We finally found ourselves bumping along the road, praying not to slide into a crocodile-filled lake, and watching as a million fireflies lit up the moonless sky.  Despite my misery, I couldn't help thinking that...
1. We are the toughest people I know.
2. As much as we miss the comforts of home and all the people we love... it can overwhelm the heart at times... this is amazing.  And we are not done yet.
3. I'm ready for some relaxing beach time. 

Day 5: Landslides blocked our direct passage home.  Of course.  So we had a long, jolting ride around the entire mountain range to get back to civilization.  Finally back in Kandy, we scrapped all of our plans and convalesced in a hotel room with a view.  This adventure taught us a lot about what we're capable of... much more than we thought.   We are also very grateful to have, at many points in crossing the globe, experienced how 'normal' people live.  The villagers we interacted with in the Knuckles Range are largely untouched by the negative aspects of mass tourism, and the dollars we spent (beyond the guide's expenses) went to local school and clinic supplies, and directly into the pockets of local families. 

That said, it also helped us set some different priorities for the next few months.  We're off to Chiang Mai, Thailand -- where Danielle will take a Thai massage course.  I will do yoga every day and get lots of said massage.  Sounds pretty simple and pretty great. Be well.  ~M

One last temple visit...  thank you Sri Lanka. 

Fireflies & flying dogs: nature time in Sri Lanka.

 

We landed in Colombo, Sri Lanka (the large island off the southern tip of India) and made our way south by train to Galle.  The very hospitable owner and staff at Leijay Resort -- a small eight room slice of heaven tucked discreetly into a quiet neighborhood -- made us feel right at home.  The gardens were astonishingly beautiful, and teeming with tropical birds, butterflies, dragonflies, and passing troops of monkeys.  Afternoons often brought impressive thunderheads; large 'flying dogs' (fruit bats) filled the sky at dusk.  This was a time for us to rest from the intensity of India, as well as take a few day trips to the beach and rainforest.  Danielle even talked her way into the kitchen to learn how to make their delicious curries. 

One of the fascinating charms of Sri Lanka is the peoples' everyday blending of religions.  Devotees make offerings at Buddhist shrines that also display Hindu deities.  Shrines to local community or mountain Gods that pre-date Bhuddism are everywhere.  There is also a strong Muslim community, with Christianity a lesser but still active presence given Portuguese, Dutch and English colonialism.  Some holy places in Sri Lanka are important pilgrimages for everyone, and there are no lack of public holidays.  The generous people of Leijay included us in their Christmas dinner and gift giving, and days later -- at our request -- several of us went to a local Bhuddist temple for Poya (full moon) rituals. 

We reluctantly left Leijay, dragging ourselves away from the pool and nearly missing our train up the coast.  We spent a couple of nights enjoying the sunsets along the Indian ocean before heading upcountry into the highlands. 

Photos from India

A view of the Ganga (Ganges River) near the ashram.

 Some of our classmates and teachers on the ashram roof.

 Enjoying a nearby waterfall.

Evening pooja rituals on the Ganga.

Gomukasana (cow faced pose).  This cow joined our class on the beach.  It's amazing what you get used to in India. 

One of the many brilliant temples we visited. 

More on our adventures in Sri Lanka soon...